Dog Breeds : Alpine Dachsbracke

Alpine Dachsbracke
Appearance
This small dog has a slight resemblance to a Dachshund, with short legs (although longer than a dachshunds) and a long body. The coat is dense, short but smooth except for the tail and neck. The round eyes have a lively expression.

Valid colors are black and tan, brown, with the most popular being red with or without black.
It weighs from 15 to 18 kg (33 to 40 lb) and stands from 34 to 42 cm (13 to 16 in) at the withers.

Temperament
Used effectively to hunt wounded deer, this breed could work even in harsh terrain and high altitude. It makes a good companion, although it is primarily a hunter and therefore is kept mostly by hunters. It has a fearless, friendly and intelligent personality. Most Alpine Dachsbrackes are excellent with children and good with dogs and other pets, though they may exhibit a strong prey drive typical of many scent dogs.

Dog Breeds : Alaskan Klee Kai

Alaskan Klee Kai
Appearance
The Alaskan Klee Kai should look like a miniature husky. They come in three sizes based on their height:

• Toy size Alaskan Klee Kai are under 13 inches in height.
• Miniature Alaskan Klee Kai are over 13 inches high and up to 15 inches high.
• Standard Alaskan Klee Kai are over 15 inches high and up to 17 inches in height.
• Seriously Faulted - Any Alaskan Klee Kai over 17 inches and up to 17.5 inches.
• Disqualified - Any Alaskan Klee Kai over 17.5 inches.
  

Alaskan Klee Kai come in four main color varieties. Black and White, which can appear with stark contrasts or with a more dilute diffusion of the colors. Grey and White, which comes in several variations. Red and White (rare) which appears either as a cinnamon or a dark auburn. Solid white which, lacking the contrasting colors required by the UKC standard, cannot be registered or bred.

Coat and Grooming
The Alaskan Klee Kai, like the Siberian Husky, is relatively easy to care for. They are extremely clean. Most don't like wet feet and will spend hours daily grooming themselves. They do not have a "doggy odor" nor do they have "dog breath." Most Klee Kai will seldom require a bath.
As in Siberians and unlike short haired dogs who shed all year long, the Klee Kai also blows their coat twice a year. Of course, the size of the dogs limit the amount of fur blown. It is best to groom the dog on a regular basis during this time. Some of the longer haired dogs can become matted if not groomed. Most Klee Kai will assist the loss of hair by rubbing against things such as fences.
Other than this period of blowing coat, the Klee Kai is very self sufficient. The normal preventative measures should be taken, such as trimming of nails, normal grooming in the form of brushing. This process is especially important in the bonding process.
Temperament
The Alaskan Klee Kai is a highly intelligent, very curious, active, quick and agile little dog that quickly become an integral part of any family that chooses to adopt one. Unlike the Siberian Husky whom they resemble, the Alaskan Klee Kai is standoffish and suspicious of strangers. Because of this they do make extremely good watch dogs. They are moderately active and have a high prey drive. This means unless they are properly introduced and raised with smaller furry or feathered animals such as rabbits, hamsters, cats, birds, etc, they will hunt and kill them. They can be a great family dog if raised with properly trained children. AKK are not likely to tolerate being mistreated (poked at, pinched, bullied) by children and may respond by nipping them, much like the Siberian Husky. Because of their intelligence they do well in obedience classes and have a high drive to please their owners which helps them to excel in this area as well as many other types of activities. Another such activity is Agility in which the AKK almost seems to have been bred to take part in. If you have an Alaskan Klee Kai that is highly active, this is a great way to help them use some of that up.

Health
Alaskan Klee Kai have been remarkably free of genetic defects in comparison to other breeds.
Some issues that do affect them however are:
Juvenile Cataracts
Liver Disease
Extreme Shyness
Factor VII Deficiency
Pyometra
Luxating Patella
Cryptorchids
Cardiac Issues including PDA
Thyroid disease-including autoimmune thyroiditis
Starting with Linda Spurlin, Alaskan Klee Kai breeders continue to follow her strict breeding practices, breeding only the healthiest dogs to each other. Most people will find it very difficult to buy an AKK puppy that does not come with a spay or neuter contract. This is done to prevent backyard breeding of dogs who, for one reason or another, were deemed not acceptable for breeding. This is not always the case however, many AKK breeders simply prefer that their puppies go into loving pet homes instead of show/breeder homes. To make sure that they remain a beloved pet and will never be used for breeding, the AKK breeder still requires them to be altered.

History
The breed was developed in Wasilla, Alaska during the mid-1970s by Linda S. Spurlin after she observed the result of an accidental mating of an Alaskan Husky and an unknown small dog. The breed was developed with Siberian and Alaskan Huskies using Schipperke and American Eskimo Dog to bring down the size without dwarfism. She bred these dogs in private until she released them to the general public in 1988. Originally called the "Klee Kai", the breed split into "Alaskan Klee Kai" and "Klee Kai" for political reasons in 1995. The breed consolidated under the new name in 2002. The Alaskan Klee Kai was officially recognized by the American Rare Breed Association (ARBA) in 1995 and by the United Kennel Club (UKC) on January 1, 1997.

Dog Breeds : Alaskan Husky

Alaskan Husky
Appearance
The Alaskan Husky is a mixed-breed dog in which northern or husky-type ancestry, such as the Siberian Huskyor the traditional Alaskan village dog, predominates. Many other breeds have contributed to its genetic makeup, including the wolf, Staghound, Foxhound, Greyhound, Doberman etc; these diverse breed contributions account for the Alaskans great variability of appearance.
Alaskan huskies (at least those used for speed racing) are moderate in size, averaging perhaps 46 to 60 pounds (21 to 25 kg) for males and 38 to 42 pounds (17 to 19 kg) for females. Some of them superficially resemble racing strains of the Siberian Husky breed (which is undeniably part of the Alaskan husky genetic mix), but are usually taller and larger with more pronounced tuck-up.
Color and markings are a matter of total indifference to racing drivers; Alaskans may be of any possible canine color and any pattern of markings. Eyes may be of any color and are often light blue. Coats are almost always short to medium in length, never long, and usually less dense than those of northern purebreds; the shorter coat length is governed by the need for effective heat dissipation while racing.
In very cold conditions, Alaskans often race in “dog coats” or belly protectors. Particularly in long distance races, these dogs often require “dog booties” to protect their feet from abrasion and cracking. Thus the considerations of hardiness and climate resistance prevalent in breeds such as the Siberian Husky and Canadian Inuit Dog are subordinated in the Alaskan husky to the overriding consideration of speed. On long distance races they require considerable care and attention on the trail at rest stops.

Temperament
Racing sled dogs are bred for stamina, strength, speed, and endurance. A positive working attitude is essential. Sled dogs that come in contact with the public at races or in excursion businesses must not be aggressive toward humans.

Alaskan huskies are popular as pets in Alaska; older dogs that have outlived their usefulness as racing dogs make excellent pets for people willing to exercise them regularly. Older ex-racers tend to be very alert and well behaved, as well as somewhat less energetic than their younger counterparts.
Young huskies make good pets if given plenty of space to run and play, but their high demand for exercise and activity makes them a poor choice for urban residents.
Huskies are often healthier in drier climates such as that of interior Alaska. In the more humid regions, they are prone to develop ear and related infections.

If multiple huskies are kept in the same lot they tend to be vocal, howling and barking at each other and any other dogs in the vicinity unless they are trained to be quiet. In crowded neighborhoods this can be a very irritating nuisance to neighbors. They can be trained for silence, albeit with some effort. They are accomplished diggers and will tunnel underneath fences and houses to hunt burrowing animals or to escape their enclosures.

Huskies make relatively poor household dogs. They shed heavily during the Spring and Fall and may be considered hyperactive by sedate humans, running in circles inside a house when bored or cramped. If left alone in a dwelling for long periods they may engage in destructive behavior out of boredom, mischief or malice. They enjoy hunting small and large animals due to a deeply wired instinct known as SMAR or small mammal attack response. When they are hooked up to a sled, and will have to stay there for a while, they may get crazy and excited and start to chew the gang line.

In Alaska and other extreme northern regions they are occasionally killed by moose in the winter. Infrequently, moose in search of non-existent winter browse of willows and mountain ash during desperate times of long cold snaps and deep snow will enter human areas attracted by the scent of fresh straw used as bedding for the dogs. True to their wolf ancestors, huskies tend not to back down from such encounters and an angry moose can easily stomp and kick several dogs causing severe injuries. Most moose/husky encounters occur during runs when a musher accidentally startles a moose on a trail. Most of the time moose avoid fights, but in cases of deep snow when escape is difficult a moose may confuse a sled team for a wolf pack and cause some serious trouble.

Normally, moose are aware that huskies are domesticated, tethered and not a threat and will frequently bed down adjacent to sled dog kennels in order to use the huskies as sentries who will alert the sleeping moose of approaching wolves. Sled dogs tethered in far northern forests may be attacked and killed on their stakeouts by wolves when other prey is unavailable. However this is rare. Professional dog sled racers often surround their lots with high fences to prevent wildlife attacks. More important is a low fence to keep out diseased rodents which can infect dogs by carrying parasites.
Health
The Alaskan Husky is generally a healthy dog. Some strains are prone to genetic health problems similar to those found in purebred dog breeds. These may include PRA, hypothyroidism, etc. Dogs with an esophagus disorder, termed "wheezers" sometimes occur. This disorder makes the dog unable to bark, but have the ability to produce a low-pitched howling noise. The defect is genetically linked, appearing rarely, and only in white coated blue-eyed dogs. The life span of the Alaskan Husky is usually between 10 to 15 years.

History
The Alaskan Husky is derived from a mix of northern types, most notably the Siberian husky. The history of the Alaskan husky really began with the Gold Rushes of the late nineteenth century; Alaskans of that era were typically heavy draft dogs with obvious Saint Bernard ancestry. The importation into Alaska of dogs from across the Bering Strait in Siberia in 1908 and subsequent years changed Alaskan sleddogs radically and permanently towards a smaller dog with lighter weight and much greater speed. With the increasing prevalence of motorized winter transport in the mid twentieth century, working sled dogs became less common in the northern villages. The Alaskan sled dog experienced a revival in the 1970s. George Attla, a Native Alaskan from the village of Huslia, was largely responsible for this. Many successful racing dogs today trace their lineage back to Attla dogs.

Dog Breeds : Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog

Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog
Appearance
Displaying an unexaggerated and natural bulldog type, the Alapaha is nevertheless a sturdy, well-developed, and muscular breed. Descriptions of its size vary greatly, calling for males anywhere from 65 to 90 pounds (30 to 45 kg) standing 19 to 26 inches (48 to 66 cm) at the withers, females smaller at 60 to 70 pounds (25 to 30 kg). Ears and tail are natural, with no cropping or docking. Colors of the Alapaha are varied, typically white or different shades of black, grey, red,white, fawn, brindle, brown, buckskin, or mahogany, always with white markings; some dogs are piebald spotted.

Temperament
The ABBB is described as trainable, dutiful, and responsible, with impressive capabilities as a guardian of family and property. It is very protective, but can be loving in the home.

History
The breed was commercialized by the Lane family of Rebecca, Georgia, USA, out of stock that originated on the Paulk plantation near the town of Alapaha, in a sustained effort over many decades to preserve the "plantation dog" of south Georgia from extinction. Detractors say that the ABBB is identical to the American Bulldog and that nothing distinctive is found in the Otto. Alapaha owners appear to disagree and photos seem to indicate a fairly distinct type.
Some fighters took hold of the breed and trained several generations into the sport of dog fighting. The dogs required too much training to be worth readying for the fighting ring, and they didn't do well, so it was soon dumped as a fighting dog.

Health
This breed is susceptible to entropion, an inversion of the eyelids.

Dog Breeds : Alano Español

Alano Español
The Alano Español has an elastic, athletic appearance that fits him especially for running long distances at high speeds, herding cattle and holding large animals. This dog has a well proportioned body structure, the rib cage is arched, but not cylindrical, the chest stretches to the elbow level. It also has strong and solid shoulders and withers. The back legs are slightly less massive than the front legs which are straight if you view them from the front or the side. The paws are big compared to the size and weight of the dog. The muscles in the hindquarters are toned and the back legs show very well defined anglulation with strong feet at the base. The tail is thickest at the base and gets thinner, eventually to a point and is carried in an arc below the backline. The stomach retracts inward in order to give him a more athletic appearance than other heavier breeds. The neck is strong, powerful and wide, showing two double chins that should never hang to low. The Alano has extremely powerful jaws. The teeth are wide, and spaced out from each other with a very strong and firm reverse-scissors bite. When running at full speed, they are fast and flexible, fully stretching all limbs in graceful bounds. They can clear almost any obstacle without looking tired at all. Coat colors include, Brindle, Fawns and 'Reds', Black and Brindle and Sable Wolf.

History
The Spanish Alano which we know today is part of a legacy left by the Alan tribe which entered the Iberian Peninsula with the Vandal hordes during the early part of the 5th Century. The Alani were of Scythian and perhaps Amazonian extraction and were one of the predominant Sarmatian peoples which inhabited the plains along the River Don to the North East of the Sea of Azov in modern-day Russia. Formidable horsemen and skilled bowmen, these warring nomads were also famous for their dogs. The Alani were regarded a scourge of the Roman Empire and of neighbouring Caucasian Kingdoms during the 1st and 2nd Centuries AD. Their numbers and efficiency meant many of their forays went unchallenged, more so since they were known to sack and lay to waste great kingdoms in the face of resistance. Their localised supremacy, though underpinned by a strong confederation of Sarmatian tribes, was challenged in the latter part of the 4th Century by the prevailing Huns and so the Alani were ultimately displaced around the turn of the 5th Century. The westbound contingent formed an alliance with those Germanic peoples forging further west through an invasion of Gaul, crossing the Rhine around 407 AD. Though some of the Alani were to settle in Southern ‘France’ and indeed, invade ‘England’, the majority went on with the Vandals to Spain and eventually North Africa where they settled a Kingdom centred upon Carthage from as early as 409 AD. The formal dissolution of the Alani as an independent tribe in the West came after a battle with Visigoths in which their King, Attaces, died in 418 AD. The Alan Crown was then unified with the Vandal Crown under, Gunderic who died in 428 AD, his brother Geiseric succeeded him until his own death in 477 AD as King of the Vandals and Alans. The Spanish Alano is a derivative of those dogs maintained by the Alani throughout that period. 'Alanos' subsequently found great favour both as revered hunters and guardians. Their courage, prowess, agility, strength and enviable stamina were broadly celebrated. A detailed description of the 'Alano' exists within Edmond de Langley's 15th Century text, "Mayster of Game" (essentially a translation of a Gaston Phoebus' work), as well as in Chaucer's "The Knight's Tale". A black-masked 'leonado' Alano is featured holding a wild boar by the ear in a painting by A. Hondius of 1585. There are also many accounts of the roles of such dogs during the Spanish Conquests of the Americas, giving limelight to great canine protagonists such as Becerrillo and Leoncillo. On a cultural level, up until 1883 when their 'turn' was outlawed, Alanos were used in the ‘Corridas’ of The Bull Ring. The popularity of the dogs waned somewhat at the turn of the 20th Century when fashion and favour befell 'foreign' breeds and as pastoral methods and livestock management changed. The breed was considered to be extinct soon after the last formal exhibition of a pair of Alanos at Madrid's 'Parque del Buen Retiro' in 1963.

Recuperation
A band of veterinary medicine students and die-hard Alano enthusiasts intent on a recuperation of this marvellous and mythical breed, set to work in the late 1970s and early 80's. After scouring Western and Northern Spain, literally conducting house-to-house enquiries with old photographs and stout hearts, their labours were rewarded with a situation much better than originally anticipated. Few examples could be traced in Estremadura or in Castille but the situation in the North of the country was much better; a thriving population of dogs were located in Las Encartaciones ,Cantabria. Those dogs were still carrying out those tasks which they had been exercising for almost two millennia, hunting wild boar and in the management of the Monchina, a semi-wild breed of Iberian Red cattle.

Dog Breeds : Alangu Mastiff

Alangu Mastiff

Appearance
This is a tall breed with a noble carriage and short coat. The dogs may be red, fawn or brindle, markings vary. The muzzle is black and the skin around their neck and mouth is loose. The brisket is deep, and the limbs are well muscled. The back is long with the tail tapering to a fine point. The ears are set high on the skull and pricked. It has a long and graceful stride. Their height varies between 73,6 to 76,2 cm. (29-30 inches).

Temperament
These dogs are known to be aggressive and protective, having a strong guarding instinct.

History
The Persian Army used Indian mastiffs, but just for guarding and were introduced into Greece by Xerxes the First when he marched towards this country in 486-465 B.C..
The Indian Mastiff originated in and around the desert area of Kutch, the Rajasthan area and Bhawalpur area of Punjab. A part of the Kutch area in Rajasthan was under the Sindh District and so the other name of this breed is Sindh Mastiff. Alongside the Kumaon Mastiff, the Indian Mastiff were used for hunting large games. A sudden change in the hunting practises saw the Indian Royal families to use cheetahs for hunting instead. This changed the Indian Mastiffs job to guard dogs and dogs used for fighting instead. With time most people forgot the breeds and the Indian Mastiff became rare. The people who used the Indian Mastiffs to fight dropped its height a couple of inches for performance sake. Its height was originally, 30-34 inches (76,2 - 86,3 cm), but as 150 years has passed the height of the breed has dwindled to 29-30 inches (73,6 - 76,2 cm).

The Indian Mastiff are used as fighting dogs in Pakistan, where they then are called Bully Kutta, alongside the proper Bully Kutta, since most Pakistani dog fighters are accustomed to calling all Mastiff breeds used for fighting Bully Kutta. The Indian Mastiff are still used in Pakistan as excellent Fighting Dogs and also as one of the most dangerous guard dogs, known to excel the true Bully Kutta.

Dog Breeds : Akita Inu

Akita Inu

Appearance
The breed stands 64 to 70 cm at the shoulders. Females weigh anywhere from 34-50kg. Males are 34-54kg. The Akita Inu come in only five colours: Red, Fawn, Sesame, Brindle, and Pure White. All except white must have whitish hair on the sides of the muzzle, on the cheeks, the neck, chest, body and tail. Black masks, as seen in the American Akita, are not permitted in the Japanese Akita Inu.

All colors are accepted in the American Akita. The Pinto color is not accepted as a Japanese Akita color, but is as an American Akita color. In the U.S., some breeders interbreed the original Japanese type with the heavier American type, which is larger, and allows more colors. It is felt by some that combining the two types leads to improved appearance and genetic health by increasing genetic diversity. In the United States, there is only a single Akita breed registered by the American Kennel Club, whereas they are separated into two breeds in every other country in the world except Canada. In all other countries the breed has been separated into two breeds: the Akita Inu and the American Akita. However, the American Akita is seen by some American breeders as being a different breed than the Japanese and these breeders advocate a splitting of the one breed into two.

Akitas possess a double coat, with a dense straight undercoat, and a thick outer coat. This coat makes the dog waterproof, as well as being well-equipped for the fierce winters in northern Japan. Due to the thickness of their coat, the breed requires daily grooming, and also an awareness of the dog's heavy shedding, especially during warm weather.

The Japanese Akita Inu is a loyal, docile and aloof. They are well known for being excellent house dogs, they are clean and quiet, only barking when there is something to bark about. In general they are very friendly and easy going dogs.

Health
Mortality
Akitas in UK and USA/Canada surveys had a median lifespan of about 10 years, which is similar to other breeds of their size.
In a 2004 UK Kennel Club survey, the most common causes of death were cancer (32%), cardiac (14%), and gastrointestinal, including bloat/torsion (14%).In a 2000-2001 USA/Canada Health Survey, the most common causes of death were cancer (21%), GDV (=bloat/torsion, 21%), musculoskeletal (15.5%), and autoimmune (7%).

Morbidity
Some of the health conditions known to affect this breed include:

• Canine herpesvirus, a strain of the Herpes virus that happens to affect canines
• Gastric dilatation volvulus (GDV), a condition associated with bloat
• Pemphigus, which causes the autoimmune system to attack the dog's skin (leading to pustules)
• Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), an adult-onset condition which gradual degeneration in the eye cells (i.e. rods & cones)
• UveoDermatological Syndrome (UDS)
• Sebaceous adenitis, an autoimmune condition which attacks and destroys the dog's sebaceous glands
• Canine Hip Dysplasia
• Hypothyroidism
• Hyperkalaemia As a breed, Akitas have abnormally high blood potassium concentrations compared to other breeds.
• Heart size As a breed, Akitas have an unusually small heart for their size. A number of Akitas have died while being operated, due to the use of a normal dose of general anaesthetic for a canine of that size, a dose which ultimately proved excessive and fatal to the Akita. For that reason, to avoid anaesthetic-induced death, only the bare minimum dose of general anaesthetic sufficient to produce anaesthesia should be used when an Akita requires general anaesthesia.
  

Gastric Dilatation Volvulus
Akita owners should take special note of the high incidence of GDV (Gastric dilatation volvulus) in this breed. Excess gas trapped in the dog's stomach causes "bloat." Twisting of the stomach (volvulus or "torsion") causes or is caused by excess gas. GDV is an emergency condition requiring immediate veterinary treatment. Akita owners should be alert to the symptoms of GDV and know the location of the nearest emergency veterinary facility.

History
The Akita's ancestors were dogs used by matagi for hunting. These dogs, usually called matagi inu, were not as large as modern Akita dogs. Many of these dogs were used as guard dogs. Many were used to guard the emperor and his children. They were also used for hunting bears, usually trained as mated pairs, with a pair of eagles. The two dogs would attack the bear as it was distracted by the eagles in the air. As a result of this hunting, hundreds of akita dogs were killed by the 120 stone yezo bears which they were commonly used to hold at bay.
Recent DNA analysis found that the Akita was among the most ancient dog breeds.

Edo Period
In the Edo Period, Dewa Province (present-day Akita prefecture) was ruled by the Satake clan. Since the Satake were tozama daimyo (considered potentially rebellious), they received severe restrictions by the Tokugawa Shogunate in all military areas. The clan decided to encourage dog fighting around 1630 in order to make it possible for the samurai to retain their aggressive edge in a way that would not offend the shogunate. Dog fighting became especially popular in the Odate area. Dog fighting enthusiasts in the area began to interbreed matagi inu with dogs indigenous to the area. These dogs, which later turned into the Akita, were called Odate inu at that time.

Before World War II
After the Meiji Restoration, people began to breed Akita with many dogs from other regions in Japan, such as the Tosa. The Meiji Restoration also ended Japan's closed door policy, and large, western dogs began to enter Japan. As a result, Akita were also bred with German Shepherds, Great Danes, and Mastiffs. This resulted in the breed losing many of its spitz-like characteristics. Akita were later bred with Hokkaido and Karafuto dogs (also known as the Sakhalin Husky), which were introduced to mainland Japan after the First Sino-Japanese War.
In the Taisho Period, people such as the mayor of Odate Town began a movement to preserve the Akita breed. By this time, the Akita had begun to turn into a mixed breed as a result of excessive breeding with other dogs. Watase Shozaburo, a Japanese zoologist that successfully proposed the Law for Protection of Natural Monuments (天然記念物保護法) also worked towards preserving the Akita breed. As a result, the Akitainu Introduction Foundation (秋田犬保存会) was created in May 1927 by the mayor of Odate, and nine Akita dogs were designated as natural monuments in 1931. In 1932, the faithful Akita dog Hachikō was featured in an article in the Asahi Shimbun newspaper, which contributed to the popularity of the breed. When Helen Keller visited Akita prefecture in 1937, she expressed that she would like to have an Akita dog. An Akita called Kamikaze-go was given to her within a month. When Kamikaze-go later died because of canine distemper, his brother, Kenzan-go, was promptly sent to her. By 1938 a breed standard had been established and dog shows had been held, but such activities stopped after World War II began.

The War and its aftermath
During World War II, the number of Akita dogs greatly diminished because of the lack of food. There were also orders to capture all dogs except German Shepherds in order to use their fur for warm army uniforms. Many people bred Akita with Alsatians to avoid capture. When the war ended in 1945, there were fewer than twenty purebred Akita dogs in Japan.
However, the Akita became quite popular during the postwar period. Many occupation soldiers liked the Akita, because it was by far the largest Japanese dog. The fact that Helen Keller had an Akita also became well-known when she came to Japan in 1948 and thanked people in Akita for the dogs she was given. Most of the Akita dogs at this time had many German Shepherd-like characteristics. These dogs are currently known as Dewa line, or Dewa type Akita.

Dog Breeds : Airedale terrier

Airedale terrier
Appearance

Weight: 20-33 kg 45-70 lb (with so-called Oorang Airedales, or "large type", from 60 to 100 lb)

Height: The Kennel Club (UK) cites: height at shoulder: Dogs should measure approximately 58 - 61 cm, bitches, 56 - 59 cm; American Kennel Club cites: Dogs should measure approximately 23-24 inches at the shoulder; bitches, slightly less

Coat: Outer coat hard, wiry and stiff, not so long as to appear ragged, undercoat shorter and softer; hardest coats are crinkling or just slightly waved; curly or soft coat highly undesirable.

Color: Black and tan

Litter size: 5-12 puppies

Life span: 10-13 years

Coat
Like many terriers, the breed has a 'broken' coat. The coat is hard, dense and wiry, not so long as to appear ragged, and lies straight and close, covering body and legs. The outer coat is hard, wiry and stiff, while the undercoat shorter and softer. Hardest coats are crinkling or just slightly waved. Curly or soft coats are highly undesirable. Because of this coat, Airedales do not significantly shed. Airedales being shown are generally groomed by stripping: a small serrated edged knife is used to pull out loose hair from the dog's coat.
The correct coat color is a black saddle, with a tan head, ears and legs; or a dark grizzle saddle (black mixed with gray and white). Both are acceptable in the AKC breed standard.

Tail
The Airedale's tail is usually docked (surgically shortened) within five days of birth, but this is not a requirement of breed standard authorities. To show an Airedale in the United States, the tail is expected to be docked, while in the UK it is illegal to dock dogs' tails unless it's for the dog's benefit (e.g., the tail is broken, if clipped). Traditionally the fluffy tail was left long.

Eyes
The Airedale's eyes should be dark in colour, small, not prominent, full of terrier expression, keeness and intelligence. Light or bold eyes are considered highly undesirable. http://www.akc.org/breeds/airedale_terrier/
Some Airedales do suffer from eye diseases, such as congenital retina condition.

Mouth
Airedales have a normal 'scissor bite', where the top teeth close over the bottom. Airedales' teeth are the largest among terriers, and can inflict a strong bite, though are unlikely ever to do on humans or other live animals.

Size
According to the American Kennel Club, Airedale terrier males should measure approximately 23 inches in height at the shoulder; bitches, slightly less. There is no mention of a specific weight, although the standard states that Both sexes should be sturdy, well muscled and boned. At 23 to 24 inches, a dog should weigh approximately 50 - 70 pounds, being active, agile enough to perform well, while not too small to function as a physical deterrent, retriever or hunter. But some breeders have produced larger Airedale Terriers, such as as the 'Oorang Airedale', developed in the 1920s.
"In Oorang comments #25, page 81, it states unequivocally that "When full grown your Airedale dog will weigh from forty to fifty-five pounds and if a female will weigh slightly less. This is the standard weight, but when required, we can furnish over-sized Airedales whose weight will be from sixty to one hundred pounds."
Because ex-Army captain, Walter H. Lingo tried to fill orders for everyone the Oorang strain size was never standardized. Airedales weighing from 40 to 100 pounds were produced, but for the most part they ran to 50 pounds and 22 to 23 inches at the shoulder.

Temperament
The Airedale can be used as a working dog and also as a hunter. Airedales exhibit some herding characteristics as well, and have a propensity to chase animals. They have no problem working with cattle and livestock. However, an Airedale that is not well trained will agitate and annoy the animals. Strong-willed, with the tenacity commonly seen in terriers, the Airedale is a formidable opponent.
The Airedale Terrier, like most Terriers, has been bred to hunt independently. As a result, the dog is very intelligent, independent, strong-minded, stoic, and can be stubborn. The Airedale is a dog with a great sense of humor. For those who can laugh along with their Airedale, the dog can provide a unique and entertaining company. For those who don't appreciate being outsmarted by their dog, owning an Airedale can be a trying experience. Patience and consistency in training will be rewarded as the Airedales have been known to reach great heights in competitive obedience, dog agility, and Schutzhund. Airedales can often be difficult to train. Being smart, Airedales pick up what is wanted from them very quickly; being smart, they do not want to keep repeating what they learned and can try to terminate a training session at the point when they "got it". Changing the routine at this point or taking a play-break is much more productive than trying to force the Airedale to continue as they are a stubborn bunch. Airedales require constant reinforcement, or they may decide to start ignoring commands. When training is resumed, they can quickly recover their acceptance of the command. Airedales are a stoic and intrepid breed and as a result, young Airedales exhibit a general lack of common sense and require training. For the same reasons, they need socializing with other dogs early.
Albert Payson Terhune wrote of the Airedale: ”Among the mine-pits of the Aire, the various groups of miners each sought to develop a dog which could outfight and outhunt and outthink the other miner’s dogs. Tests of the first-named virtues were made in inter-mine dog fights. Bit by bit, thus, an active, strong, heroic, compactly graceful and clever dog was evolved – the earliest true form of the Airedale."
He is swift, formidable, graceful, big of brain, an ideal chum and guard. ....To his master he is an adoring pal. To marauders he is a destructive lightning bolt."
They are also very loving, always in the middle of the family activities. Airedales are also known for expressing exactly what they are thinking, unlike more aloof breeds. The Airedale is also a reliable and protective family pet. Airedales are exceedingly loyal and strong dogs; there is one story of an Airedale taking down a bear to protect its master. They are very energetic, and need plenty of exercise.
The Airedale is also a stoic, able to withstand pain and injury, the Airedale’s hurts and illnesses often go unnoticed until they become severe and require veterinary attention.

Health
Mortality
Airedale Terriers in UK, USA, and Canadian surveys had a median lifespan of about 11.5 years, which is similar to other breeds of their size.
In a 2004 UK Kennel Club survey, the most common causes of death were cancer (39.5%), old age (14%), urologic (9%), and cardiac (7%) . In a 2000-2001 USA/Canada Health Survey, the most common causes of death were cancer (38%), urologic (17%), old age (12%), and cardiac (6%)

Morbidity
Airedales can be affected by hip dysplasia.
Like most terriers, they have a propensity towards dermatitis. Skin disorders may go unnoticed in Airedales, because their hard, dense, wiry coats. Itchy skin may be manifest as acral lick dermatitis (caused by licking one area excessively) or acute moist dermatitis or "hot spots" (an oppressively itchy, inflamed and oozing patch of skin, made worse by intense licking and chewing). Allergies, dietary imbalances, and under/over-productive thyroid glands are main causes for skin conditions.
An Airedale's coat was originally designed to protect the dog from its predators. So, the coat was designed to come out in the claws of the predator the dog was designed to hunt, leaving the dog unharmed. Because of this, some forms of skin dermatitis can respond to hand stripping the coat. Clipping the coat cuts the dead hair, leaving dead roots within the hair follicles. It is these dead roots which can cause skin irritations. However, hand stripping removes these dead roots from the skin and stimulates new growth. Hence this process can assist with some forms of skin irritations.
Gastric torsion, or bloat, affects Airedale Terriers. Bloat can turn and block the stomach, causing a buildup of gas. Bloat can be fatal, it can lead to cardiovascular collapse. Signs of bloat are gastric distress (stomach pain), futile attempts at vomiting, and increased salivation. Bloat usually occurs when the dog is exercised too soon after eating. They will eat up to 4-6 cups of food and are carnivores.

Drinkwell Big Dog Pet Fountain

Product Description

Save worrying over your pet's well being by knowing they have their own waterfall of freshened water anytime they want it. The Drinkwell Big Dog Fountain filters and aerates continuously moving water to keep it much fresher than standing bowl water. Features: an adjustable flow rate, 288 oz. capacity, self contained (no need to connect to a water line), charcoal filter absorbs tastes and odors, no overflow if power is lost, pitcher-like spout creates a tall, long waterfall.
Product Details

* Amazon Sales Rank: #7911 in Pet Products [ full detail ]
* Size: Large
* Color: White
* Brand: Drinkwell
* Model: DW-200W
* Released on: 2007-06-11
* Dimensions: 19.00" h x 13.00" w x 10.00" l, 5.40 pounds

Features
* Designed, approved, and recommended by veterinarians
* Cleans the water
* Promotes urinary tract health for your pet
* Easy to set up
* 2.25 gallon capacity

Reviews :
Great Product Improvement
I had the previous version of the Drinkwell that held about a quart to half gallon less. The dogs (2 corgis) love this one the same as the the last one. One drinks from the flow and the other drinks from the basin. This unit is MUCH quieter than the previous one and I was able to re-use the water reservoir from the previous unit (one stays on the unit and the other stays next to it full.) People who visit think it is rather remarkable plus it makes it easy on our pet sitter. We purchased this unit because the other unit (5 years old) began to puddle from a leak around the motor and on occasion the impeller motor would stall (broken fins.) This unit has been running for over two months now and isn't exhibiting any quirks. Cleaning the unit isn't difficult and we get about 90 days out of the filter. I'd buy another and recommend purchasing it.

Dog Breeds : Aidi

Aidi
Appearance
Standing 21 to 25 inches (53-63.5 cm) in height and weighing around 55 pounds (25 kg), the Aidi's lean, muscular body is protected by a coarse, thick, weather-resistant coat with a heavy plumed tail. The head is bear-like and in proportion to the rest of the body. The breed has a tapered muzzle with a black or brown nose that usually matches the coat. Their jaws are strong with tight black or brown lips. The medium-sized ears are tipped forward and drop slightly. The eyes are medium, with a dark colour and dark rims. Coat colours are white, black, black and white, pale red, and tawny.

Temperament
The Aidi is energetic and highly protective and is said to make an outstanding watchdog. It is a powerful dog that is also agile, alert, and ready for action. As a sensitive breed, the dog should receive kind yet firm training.

History
The Aidi is recognized as coming from Morocco, probably originating in the Sahara. The dog has never worked as a sheepdog even though the 1963 standard was published under the name Atlas Sheepdog; this was corrected in 1969.

Dog Breeds : Africanis

Africanis
Appearance

The Africanis is a short-coated, medium-sized dog, well-muscled and slightly longer than tall. It can be of any colour and occasionally come with a ridgeback. The Africanis has over the years been shaped by Africa for Africa. Its beauty is embodied in the simplicity and functionality of its body. It is slenderly built, agile, supple, and capable of great speed.

Temperament

The Africanis is well disposed without being obtrusive: a friendly dog showing watchful territorial behaviour. The breed is independent and territorial, but highly trainable.

It is my experience that the Africanis is a marvellous pet and house dog. Guided by its instinct of subservience it will steal your heart before you realise it.

- Johan Gallant, President of the Africanis Society of Southern Africa (September 9, 2005).

Health

The Africanis needs neither pampering nor special food. It is consistently healthy and has, over the years, developed a natural resistance against internal and external parasites.

History

There is ample evidence that no canine domestication took place in Africa and that the traditional African dog is a descendant of dogs that had been domesticated in the East and came to Africa. Their earliest presence has been established in Egypt and dated at 4700 BC. Archaeological records show that, from then on, the dog spread rapidly along the Nile into Sudan and even beyond. At the same time, migrations, trade, and transhumance took it deep into the Sahara. By 2000 BC, this moving frontier stopped for a long period. Meanwhile, throughout the Egyptian dynasties, the breeding of swift and slender hounds together with a variety of common dogs became very popular.

For thousands of years, the aboriginal Stone Age San (Bushman) populations in Southern Africa hunted without the help of dogs. Although the Khoikhoi brought domestic sheep along a western migratory route to the Cape of Good Hope just before the Christian era, there is no conclusive evidence that dogs were part of their party.

The domestic dog first arrived in Southern Africa with the migration of the Early Iron Age Bantu speaking people. Dogs of Nilotic origin consecutively joined the Early and also Later Iron Age migrations. It is generally accepted that these migrations travelled along the Central Rift and the Lacustrine region. They followed tsetse-free corridors through Zambia and Zimbabwe to reach Botswana and finally South Africa. The earliest evidence for the presence of a domestic dog in South Africa has been established by Dr. Ina Plug, deputy director of the Transvaal Museum. The remains were found near the Botswana border and dated at 570 AD. By 650 AD the presence of the house dog is established in the Lower Thukela valley. By 800 AD it is part of a Khoisan settlement in Cape St. Francis, indicating that contact and trade between Bantu and Khoisan had been established.

For hundreds of years this exclusive primitive canine gene pool adapted to various conditions of the Southern African landscape and, through natural selection, evolved into ecotypes all belonging to the same landrace. It is sometimes argued that dogs brought by the Arab trade, Eastern seafarers, and Portuguese explorers might, over the years, have "contaminated" the traditional African dog. In other opinions, these chances are scant. Exotic canine influences became more likely after the colonisation of Transkei and Zululand during the 19th century.

The true Africanis is still found today in tribal areas where people maintain their traditional lifestyle. The fast-changing South Africa and the impact that this causes on rural societies, together with a certain disdain for the traditional dog and the status that the ownership of an exotic breed provides, poses an increasing threat to the continuation of the aboriginal Africanis. The Africanis Society of Southern Africa was founded to conserve this ancient gene pool. Conserving the Africanis as a land race stands for conserving biodiversity.

Today, the Africanis is recognized by the Kennel Union of Southern Africa (KUSA) as an emerging breed.

Dog Breeds : Afghan Hound

Afghan Hound

Appearance
The Afghan Hound is tall, standing 24 to 29 inches (63-74 cm) in height and weighing 45 to 60 pounds (20-30 kg). The coat may be any colour, but white markings, particularly on the head, are discouraged; many individuals have a black facial mask. Some are almost white, but particolour hounds (white with islands of red or black) are not acceptable and may indicate impure breeding. The long, fine-textured coat requires considerable care and grooming. The long topknot and the shorter-haired saddle on the back in the mature dog are distinctive features of the Afghan Hound coat. The high hipbones and unique small ring on the end of the tail are also characteristics of the breed.

Temperament
The temperament of the typical Afghan Hound can be aloof and dignified, but happy and clownish when playing. The breed has a reputation among dog trainers of having a relatively slow "obedience intelligence" as defined by author Stanley Coren. The Afghan Hound has many cat-like tendencies and is not slavish in its obedience as are some other breeds. The Afghan hound has a leaning towards independence. Owners should not be surprised if their Afghan hounds sometimes choose to ignore commands. Although seldom used today for hunting in Europe and America where they are popular, Afghan hounds are frequent participants in lure coursing events and are also popular in the sport of conformation showing.

Health

Mortality

Afghan Hounds in UK surveys had a median lifespan of about only 6 years, which is similar to other breeds of their size.

In a 2004 UK Kennel Club survey, the most common causes of death were cancer (31%), old age (20%), cardiac (10.5%), and urologic (5%).

Morbidity and Health Concerns

Major health issues are allergies, and cancer. Sensitivity to anesthesia is an issue the Afghan hound shares with the rest of the sighthound group, as sighthounds have relatively low levels of body fat.

Afghan hounds are also among the dog breeds most likely to develop chylothorax, a rare condition which causes the thoracic ducts to leak, allowing large quantities of chyle fluid to enter the dog's chest cavity.[citation needed] This condition commonly results in a lung torsion (in which the dog's lung twists within the chest cavity, requiring emergency surgery), due to the breed's typically deep, "barrel"-shaped chest. If not corrected through surgery, chylothorax can ultimately causing fibrosing pleuritis, or a hardening of the organs, due to scar tissue forming around the organs to protect them from the chyle fluid. Chylothorax is not necessarily, but often fatal. Most surgical options have roughly a 50% success rate, and multiple surgeries are common.[citation needed] While this condition is extremely rare, Afghan hound owners would be wise to keep this information at hand, as the condition can be difficult to diagnose. When selecting an Afghan hound puppy, it is also advised to inquire about chylothorax in the dog's lineage, as there is some indication that the condition may be genetic.

History

The breed was always thought to date back at least to the pre-Christian era, and recent discoveries by researchers studying ancient DNA have revealed that the Afghan Hound is in fact one of the most ancient dog breeds, dating back for many thousands of years. Its original native name, Tazi, betrays its connection to the very similar Tasy breed of Russia. The proximity of southern Russia and Afghanistan argues for a common origin for both breeds.

Initially, Afghan people refused to sell their national dog to outsiders; the breed was not seen in Europe and America until after the turn of the 20th century. The AKC and CKC did not recognize the Afghan Hound until the 1930s. Originally export of this dog was prohibited and the first to arrive in England and the United States was at the turn of the 20th century. Captain Banff imported "Zardin" from Afghanistan around this time and he was first shown at the Crystal Palace Kennel Club Show in 1907, making a tremendous impact.

In 1983, Chris Terrell was the last breeder-owner-handler to win Best in Show at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show, with his Afghan Hound Ch. Kabik's The Challenger, also the last time a dog from the Hound group has been awarded Best in Show. An Afghan Hound has taken the top honor at just one other WKC Dog Show, in 1957.

On August 3, 2005, Korean scientist Hwang Woo-Suk announced that his team of researchers had become the first team to successfully clone a dog. The dog, an Afghan Hound, was named Snuppy. Later that year, a pattern of lies and fraud by Hwang Woo-Suk came to light, throwing in doubt all his claims. Snuppy, nonetheless, was a genuine clone, and thus the first cloned dog in history.

Dog Breeds : Affenpinscher

Affenpinscher
Appearance
Weighing 7 to 9 pounds (3-4 kg) and not exceeding 11 inches (24-30 cm) in height at the withers the Affenpinscher has harsh rough coat and a monkey-like expression (Affe means monkey in German). Its coat is shaggier over the head and shoulders forming a mane, with shorter coat over the back and hind quarters. It is harsh and wiry in texture. The FCI and UK breed standards specifies that the coat must be black, but the AKC also allows gray, silver, red, black and tan, and belge (not beige; belge is a mixture of red, black and white hairs); other clubs have their own lists of acceptable colours, with black being the preference.

Temperament
Affenpinschers have a distinct appearance that some associate with terriers. They are different from terriers, however, in that they are actually part of the pinscher-schnauzer subgroup of group 2 in the FCI classification and so often get along with other dogs and pets. They are active, adventurous, curious, and stubborn, but they are also fun-loving and playful. The breed is confident, lively, affectionate towards family members and is also very protective of them. This loyal little dog enjoys being with its family. It needs consistent, firm training because some can be quite difficult to housebreak. The training should be varied because the dog can easily become bored.

Affenpinschers are somewhat territorial when it comes to their toys and food, so they are not recommended for very small children. This dog is mostly quiet but can become very excited if attacked or threatened and shows no fear toward any aggressor. It is best suited for a family who likes a show and has a sense of humor.

Health
Mortality
A small sample (N=21) of Affenpinschers in a UK survey had a median lifespan of 11.4 years, which is a typical lifespan for a purebred dog, but a bit lower than most breeds of their size. The most common causes of death were old age (24%), urologic (19%), and "combinations" (14%).

Morbidity
The Affenpinscher can get hip dysplasia. As with many small breeds of dog they are prone to collapsed trachea, which is best avoided by walking the dog with a harness instead of a collar. Cataracts are occasionally reported.

History
The breed is German in origin and dates back to the seventeenth century. Its name is derived from the German Affe (ape, monkey). The breed predates and is ancestral to the Griffon Bruxellois (Brussels Griffon) and Miniature Schnauzer.

Dogs of the Affenpinscher type have been known since about 1600 but these were somewhat larger, about 12 to 13 inches, and came in colors of gray, fawn, black and tan, gray and tan, and also red. White feet and chest were also common. The breed was created to be a ratter, working to remove rodents from kitchens, granaries, and stables.

Care
Affenpinschers need to be groomed two to three times a week because of their 1 inch coat.

Visiting the vet

Transporting your puppy or dog
Few pets enjoy a visit to the vet, although the scents and smells of the other animal patients will probably be a bonus to a young puppy! It is best tot take your dog to the vet in a carrying case. If your pet is small or is still a puppy, you can take it to the vet in a special carrying box which will keep it safe and easy to handle while you wait your turn. Large dogs are more difficult to transport, although if you have a car a special cage can be fitted in the back. Your local pet supply store may have a selection of these.

Your pet’s records
The veterinary clinic will keep a record of your pet’s name, address, and medical details. The record will list information about all the vaccinations and treatment your pet has had. The vet can use the record to check what medicines have been used in the past.

Meeting the vet
Always keep your dog or puppy close to you in the waiting room as there may be animals that are ill or difficult to control. When it is your turn to go into the examination room introduce your pet to the vet by name and explain what the problem is. You can also ask your vet to answer any queries you have about your pet’s health.

Explaining what is wrong
You will probably know better than anyone else how your dog or puppy is feeling because of your close relationship. It will help the vet to diagnose what is wrong with your pet if you make a note of any changes you have noticed in its behavior.

The examination
The vet will ask you to lift your pet onto the examination table where it is easier to feel the dog’s muscles and bones, examine its mouth an teeth and take your pet’s temperature. With regular examinations and vaccinations, plenty of exercise and a balanced diet, your pet should be free of health problems.

In an emergency

Moving the dog to safety
If your puppy or dog is involved in a traffic accident you should act quickly. If necessary, remove your pet from immediate danger by gently placing a sheet underneath it and lifting it to a safe place. Contact your vet immediately and find out whether you should visit the clinic or wait for the to come to the scene of the accident.

First aid
Check for the dog’s pulse on the inside of its thigh. If the dog is having trouble breathing open its mouth and bring the tongue forward to check the airway is clear. If a wound is bleeding heavily, hold a clean cloth pad over it to stop the flow of  blood. Keep the dog  warm with blankets in case it goes into shock. A dog in shock or a lot of  pain could bite without warning so you may have to muzzle your pet by tying a strip of cloth around its jaws.

Emergency first aid kit
This should contain essential items like tweezers, safe disinfectant, eye wash, antiseptic cream, adhesive dressing, and cotton batting.

Keeping your dog healthy : Part 2

Skin and coat
Your dog’s coat can tell you a lot about its general health. When you groom your pet you will notice any changes suck as bald patches, which could mean a skin infection. Your dog may be suffering from a mite infection, such as mange or eczema. If your pet has a skin problem, you should take it to the vet. The sooner you identify a problem, the easier it will be for your vet to treat it.

Worming
All puppies and dogs must regularly be given medicine to protect them from internal parasites, such as tapeworm. Puppies can be infected by worms before and after birth and should be regularly wormed up to the age of five months. After that they can be rewormed every six months. Treatments for tape worm can be given every year to an adult dog. Your vet will be able to advise you about suitable worming medicines.

Fleas
Dogs and puppies can easily pick up fleas. If your dog is affected, you can treat the problem with sprays and powders from your vet or pet supply store. You should ask for a preparation that will kill both flea eggs and larvae. Your dog should also wear a special collar to kill fleas.

Treating your pet’s bedding
If there is a severe outbreak of fleas it is essential to treat your pet’s bed and any furniture that it likes to sit on using a spray or powder. This should also be a formula that kills both flea eggs and larvae. Another parasite, the tick, which is usually picked up in the countryside from farm animals such as sheep, can also be treated with a special spray.

Checklist-pet health
Check your dog’s ears and eyes every week for signs of infection. Ask your vet for advice on worming your puppy or dog. During grooming, check your dog’s coat carefully for bald patches. Buy your dog a special collar to help keep it free of fleas.

Keeping your dog healthy : Part 1

First signs of illness
If you dog or puppy isn’t interested in its food or loses weight, you should contact your vet. Any obvious signs of ill health, such as constant scratching, or running eyes or nose should also be investigated by a vet. Puppies with diarrhea can become weak very quickly and should be seen by a vet as soon as possible. Adult dogs with the same problem need treatment and possibly a change of diet. Older dogs do not require high protein foods and special dietary foods, available at pet supply store or your veterinary clinic, can be better for them. Ask your vet for advice.

Ears
One of the most vulnerable areas in a dog is its outer ear. If infections are not spotted they can spread to the middle and inner ear and be difficult to treat. It is important to get your puppy or dog used to having its ears examined regularly for signs of soreness or excessive dirt. If your dog has long, floppy ears it is likely to get more infections than breeds with small ears and regular cleaning is important to keep your pet healthy.

Eyes
Regularly wipe the area around your dog’s eyes clean. If your pet’s eyes are watering or are irritated or its tear ducts look blocked, contact your vet, because this can lead to serious eye infections.

Going on vacation

Taking your pet with you
Many guest houses and some hotels will take a pet dog as long as it it is under control at all times. You can find special books listing “pet-friendly” establishments in your library or at your local book store. Puppies rarely travel well and should not be moved unless it is absolutely necessary.

Using kennels
One alternative to taking your pet on vacation is to board it in a kennel. Your vet will probably be able to recommend a good establishment to you. Inspect the kennel first to make sure that it is suitable and that the animals already there are happy and healthy. Make sure that kennel staff will exercise your dog every day during its stay. Remember that you will need to show an up-to-date vaccination certificate for your pet before it will be accepted. A good kennel will not take a dog without a certificate.

Using a dogsitter
Another solution is to use a “dogsitter,” a friend, relative, or neighbor who will keep a daily watch on your dog and give it food and exercise.

Making your pet feel at home
Kennel staff are animal lovers and they will always try to make your dog feel at home. You can help by bringing your pet’s bed, blanket, and toys with you. It is essential that your dog gets the same kind of food as you give it at home. This can be arranged with the kennel owners who will either stock the same food or ask you to bring some with you.

Dog behavior

Different moods

Dogs use body language and sounds to communicate. If you study your dog closely, you will see changes in the position of its head and ears, the “look” in its eyes, the hairs on its tail, according to its mood.

Showing feelings

When your dog’s head and tail are up it is happy, It will wag its tail from side to side or even in a kind of circle when it is glad to see you. If its head is down and its tail is between its legs then it may be very unhappy. Sometimes this means your dog is being “submissive.” Which means that it is allowing another dog or a human to be in charge.

Guarding territory

When a stranger is in your home you will notice your dog’s hair thicken and “stand up,” particularly its back and neck. Your pet will often bark loudly and become very excited. This is your dog’s way of communicating its desire to defend your house.

In the home

All dog thrive on human company. They are pack animals, used to knowing their place within a group. Because of this, your dog may eventually come to believe it is “human” or that your family represents its pack. However, you must always remember that your pet is a dog! Understanding this will help you to keep your dog or puppy happy at home.

Mixing with other pets

Puppies will mix with almost any animal. Dogs that have lived in another home or with a breeder for a long time can be much more difficult to introduce into a new home where there is another animal. This depends very much on the breed and the age of the dog but a vet will advise on each case.
Introducing a new puppy

Introducing a new puppy to another dog has to be attempted carefully. Few happy and healthy adult dogs will show aggression toward a puppy, gut the introduction has to be taken slowly. An existing dog or cat will look on your home as its territory and will aggression from your existing pet should be discouraged and you should keep the animal under control at all times.

Introducing and older dog

When you introduce an older dog to a younger one they should be encouraged to play or exercise in an activity they can both enjoy. All food should be kept away from the meeting. All meals should be given separately for the first few days. Once there is fully acceptance of the newcomer by the existing pet, meals can given in separate dishes at the same time.

Dog and cat

Older dog, for example those that have been encouraged to chase cats from gardens, will show very friendly with your own cat and chase others away from your garden but this is because it is protecting its territory. Some dogs and cats will live together in harmony with no problems.

Breeding dogs and caring for the puppies

Breeding dogs

Unless you keep your dog specifically for breeding, you shouldn’t le it become pregnant. Not only you will have the worry and cost of raising puppies but you will have to find each of them a caring home, which may be very difficult.

Pregnancy

A female dog (bitch) and a male dog (dog) are first able to mate at the age of 6 to 12 months old. The bitch is said to be “in heat” at certain times and this means that she is ready to mate. The pregnancy will last for around 63 days. A vet can usually detect signs of pregnancy at around 22-30 days.

Preparing for the birth

A pregnant bitch requires extra food, vitamins, and minerals. From the sixth week of pregnancy she should be fed more often than usual. About two weeks before the puppies are due to born, you should make a warm comfortable bed for her to give birth in. A large cardboard box will do. The bed should be lined with lots of newspaper and placed in a quiet, private corner.

The birth

When the mother is ready to give birth, she will become restless and start to pant. This first stage of labor can last for several hours. The second stage is when the mother pushes out a puppy. A puppy is born about every 30 minutes. After each puppy is born it is followed by a placenta. This is what the puppy feeds from when it is in its mother’s womb.

When to call the vet

Most bitches can give birth without human help, but tell your vet as soon as labor begins so that you can get help quickly if the mother needs it. The birthing stage should not normally last for more than six hours, although large litters may take puppy, contact your vet.

The litter

There are usually between four and eight puppies in a litter. Shortly after the puppies have been born the mother licks them. This is to clean the puppies and keep them warm. The puppies soon begin to drink their mother’s milk which gives them all the nutrition they need at this stage.

The first days of life

Puppies are born blind an deaf and rely on their mother to keep them warm, especially during this period.

Weaning the puppies

The mother will require a highly nutritious diet while she is feeding her puppies. She will also need extra vitamins and minerals. When they are very young, puppies tend to sleep a great deal. As they grow older they become increasingly active and need more food. Gradually the puppies can be weaned off their mother’s milk onto solid food. This can begin from three to five weeks of age. When the puppies are eight weeks old they should be fully weaned.

Providing exercise and toys

Regular exercise

It is essential that you give your dog regular exercise to keep it fit and healthy. It is important not it over exercise puppies less than one year old, because their bones and muscles are still developing.

Walking on a leash

The best form of outdoors exercise is a walk on a leash, but you must have total control over your dog to keep your pet and others safe. When you are walking your dog or puppy keep it close to you and use the “heel” command to keep it under control.

Playing with toys

Toys are a good way of providing exercise. Store them in a special box and always make a fuss when you get them out. Keep the toys for set times as this is a good way of training and controlling your dog.

Using toys

Toys that your pet can run and fetch are the best. They teach obedience and encourage your dog to play with you for a reward. Every time your pet brings the back, praise it and offer it a treat. At first your puppy will ignore your commands. When this happens, it is best to put the toys away to teach your pet that it must obey you if it wants to play.

Choosing toys

Your pet’s toys should be nontoxic and made of strong, solid rubber or special nylon to prevent them from . Puppies can easily swallow stray bits and this can lead to choking. Dogs also enjoy playing with soft toys and can find them very comforting. Rag-type toys are especially good for your pet as they will help to clean its teeth.

Training you dog : Part 2

Teaching commands at home
Use a cheerful voice and address your puppy regularly by name. When your pet has learned its name it can be taught to come when called. Stand a little way off from your puppy and tell it to “come” using a confident tone of voice. You can also use visual signals such as patting your knee. To teach your puppy to sit, say “sit” clearly, then gently and firmly push push its bottom and back legs down into the sitting position.

Teaching commands outside the home
It is essential to keep your puppy or dog on a leash when you are teaching it new commands away from your home. This will prevent your puppy from getting lost before it has fully learned to come back at your command!

A collar and leash
All dogs and puppies should get used to wearing a collar and leash. Most dog trainers recommend a choke chain and short, strong strap leash for walking and training your pet.

Starting to walk on a leash
When your puppy is 12-15 weeks old you can begin teaching it how to walk to heel on a leash. While walking, keep your puppy close to your side. If your pet pulls, tell it to “heel” in a firm, clear voice and then return your dog to your side.

Learning with games
Some of the most rewarding training can be gained from “throw and fetch” games. They are enjoyable for your dog and can also be great fun for you. With some effort and patience you can train your dot to run and fetch a ball or toy bone and then sit and wait for a reward. Some dogs respond better to these games than others and you may be able to encourage your pet to “give” you the toy that it has brought back. This game will encourage obedience.

Avoiding trouble
You should not allow a game of “throw and fetch” to turn into a tug-of-war. By training your dog you are telling it that you are in control. If your dog grows stronger than you and refuses to give up its toy, your position of authority and your control over your dog will be weakened.

Training you dog : Part 1

Training you dog

It is very satisfying to have a well-behaved dog. Training your pet requires patience and understanding, but when your dog learns a new command it can be very rewarding for both of you. It is important to have complete control of your dog when it is out in public places.

The basic commands
Try to teach your dog the basic commands. These are “come”,”sit”,”walk to heel” and ”stay” . Always praise your dog when it obeys your commands. Try to keep some dog treats in your pocket as a reward on these occasions.

Starting to train your puppy
After three or four months your puppy should understand most of the basic commands and will enjoy responding to them. Older dogs that are untrained may take much longer. Your puppy will learn more readily while it is enjoying itself. Training sessions should be short and enjoyable.

Rewarding good behavior
Try not to become angry or disappointed with your puppy if it fails to respond to your commands. It will take many attempts to learn a new instruction successfully. Always reward your puppy with praise when it behaves well.

Grooming and handling : Part 2

Bathing your pet
Run lukewarm water into the bath. It should be deep enough to reach the top of your dog's legs. Lift your dog into the water and wet it from its head to its tail. Once the dog is wet, rub shampoo into its flanks and underside. A special dog shampoo is best. Most soaps and shampoos are too harsh for a dog's skin and can cause a skin rash. After soaping, rinse the attachment the water should be slightly warm. While your dog is still in the tub, drain the bathwater.

Drying your dog
Leave your dog in the empty bath tub for a few minutes so that it can shake off some of the water and then quickly dry it with old towels. Finish off with a blow-dryer set on low if you wish.

Clipping the coat
Some long-haired and terrier dogs need to have their coats clipped regularly. This should be done by professional dog groomers. Find a good groomer through your vet or from the telephone directory.

Claws
If you walk your dog on the sidewalk its claws will probably be worn down naturally. If claws grow very long they can make a dog lame. They will need trimming occasionally with special clippers which you can buy from a pet supply store. Your vet will be able to show you how to trim your pet's claws.

Grooming and handling : Part 1

Grooming and handling

Dogs should be brushed regularly to keep their coats healthy. Grooming will also help you to control your dog or puppy as brushing around your pet's head and shoulders is an important way of establising your authority.

Brushing and combing
Some breeds molt at certain times of the year and should be brushed or combed every day. This is the best time to check your pet for skin infections and fleas. There is a range of grooming tools available. Some multipurpose brushes and hand gloves or wire bristle brushes are suitable for fine or short-hired dogs. Most combs and deep brushes are recommended for long-haired or thick-coated dogs. Brush or comb through your dog's coat following the direction that its hair grows. Groom your pet's hind quarters and underside carefully, so that it learns to trust you.

Keeping your dog clean
Most dogs need a bath sometimes, although puppies just need to be wiped over with a warm, damp cloth. Bathing needs to be done carefully. It is good idea to ask someone in your family to help you to control your dog. Some dogs enjoy a good bath and rubdown while others behave as though their lives are at stake! If you make bathtime a fun family occasion it will help to put your pet at ease.

Feeding your dog : Part 2

A balanced diet
There are many different types of prepared dog meals ranging from dried “complete” foods to canned foods. Older dogs need less exercise and may benefit from dried “complete” foods, because they do not need as much protein. Younger dogs, especially healthy active puppies, require more protein in their meals and will benefit from a mixture of prepared foods and fresh food.

Feeding scraps
Dogs should never be offered food at your dining table. Any scraps (especially meat and vegetables) should be added to your dog's food dish. It is a good idea to mix table scraps with your dog's usual food, otherwise your pet could come to prefer your food and leave its own uneaten! Feeding your dog lots of tidbits may make it overweight and unhealthy.

Treats
Don't give your pet too many treats. They make a good reward during training, but not all the time.

Feeding your dog : Part 1

The young puppy

A growing puppy needs four moist meals a day. These can include scrambled eggs, boiled fish, and prepared puppy foods. Most prepared puppy foods have been developed to meet the dietary needs of very young dogs. Read the feeding instructions on the can carefully to check the amount of food that is needed by your breed. If you buy your puppy from a breeder, you will be given a diet sheet for your new pet. Puppies of large breeds may benefit from calcium and vitamin supplements. Your vet will be able to advise you about these.

Checklist

• Wash your pet's dishes every day.
• Read the feeding instructions on your pet's food carefully.
• Ask your vet for advice on vitamin supplements for your puppy.

Making your dog comfortable : Part 2

Settling your puppy in

Everything will be new and strange to your puppy, so try to protect it from too much fuss. Don't let younger brothers and sisters pester your pet. The puppy will need peace and quiet to help it to settle.

The first few days

Few puppies settle immediately on their first night and there could be some crying or howling. Your puppy will find life very different away from its mother and the litter. If you show your pet plenty of love it will soon happily accept its new family.

Your pet's bed

A cosy bed with a warm blanket will soon make a new puppy feel settled. You can buy various types of bed from your pet supply store. The most common types are made of molded plastic or wicker. Plastic beds can be easily washed and cleaned and usually come in a wide range of sizes. Wicker baskets are less practical because young dogs often chew them.

Feeding dishes

Heavy pottery or stainless steel bowls are best for water and food. Dishes should be washed thoroughly every day, because bits of uneaten food can carry germs. Make sure your pet always has a bowl of fresh, clean water to drink.

A collar and leash

A leather dog collar can be worn indoors and outside. A choke chain and collar will be needed for leash training. Collars should be a good fit, and not too large or too tight for your pet. A name tag showing your telephone number on your dog's collar or a modern “chip” are essential because they will help you to trace your pet if it is missing.